4 Rules of Castle-building
Use moist sand. Squeeze a ball of sand in your hand for a few seconds. "If the ball stays together when you roll it around in your palm, it's perfect sand for a castle," says Justin Gordon, an award-winning professional sand sculptor in Massachusetts. "The best place to find this sand is below the tide line," says Gordon.
Start with a densely packed mound of sand. To get the best density, build up the mound gradually: Add 6 inches of sand, pack down firmly with your fists, then pour half a bucket of water on top. (You can never add too much water; any excess will just drain out.) Repeat until you've reached your desired height.
Shave away sand in thin layers. This way, you'll have more control when you're carving design details. Plus, it's easier to take away sand than it is to add it back.
Work from top to bottom. You'll lessen the chance that falling sand or an ill-placed knee will ruin your work. As you create finer details like windows and stairs, blow away excess sand using a straw.
How to Build a Sandbox
Planning Your Sandbox
The location of the sandbox is often determined by where you have space available. The eight-foot by eight-foot frame we're building takes up 64 sq. ft. You may be pleased to have less yard to mow, but if you can't spare the space, work with a smaller sandbox in the area that you have. The plans below can easily be re-sized to fit your space.
Sun or shade? Remember that a sandbox in full sun means the youngsters are exposed to UV rays. On the other hand, placement directly under a tree requires cutting tree roots when digging. At best this is a difficult task-it could also damage or kill the tree. Look for a spot that receives some shade from the house or from nearby trees. For safety's sake, locate the sandbox where you can keep an eye on the youngsters while they're playing.
When planning the size, make room for dump trucks, sand buckets and the neighbors' kids. Remember that you're going to have to put sand in it-perhaps a lot of sand. The example we're using requires 32 cu. ft. of sand (about 64 fifty-LB. bags). If this sounds like too much, you can easily reduce the dimensions. The bracing and corner assembly construction will be the same regardless of the length and width.
Preparing the Site
When you've decided on site and size, measure, mark and prepare the area.
Step 1
Use twine and stakes to make straight lines.
Step 2
Cut out the shape with a shovel.
Step 3
Remove sod (use it to cover bare spots in your yard if you have any).
Step 4
Dig out the soil. You'll want the bottom edge of the sandbox slightly below the surface to help keep the walls in place.
Step 5
Level the cleared area if necessary.
Step 6
Put down a layer of landscape fabric (not plastic) to allow drainage and prevent weeds and grass from popping up through the sand.
Cutting and Assembling the Pieces
Cutting and Assembling the Pieces
To minimize cuts, we're buil
ding our sandbox from 8-ft lumber. Cedar is waterproof, attractive and approved for ground contact. To get the depth we need (12-in), the 6-in wide boards require joining.
Step 1
Square and cut four of the 1 by 6 boards to 8-ft lengths.
Step 2
Use construction adhesive to edge glue and clamp two sets of 8-ft boards. Allow the adhesive to cure according to the manufacturer's instructions. The glued 8-ft boards are sides A and C of the sandbox.
Step 3
Cut eight 10-in pieces from one of the 1 by 3 boards. These are the inside supports.
Step 4
Use 1 1/4-in galvanized screws to secure one inside support at each end of each glued 8 ft. board. The 10- in 1 bys should be on the inside face, flush with the ends of the 8-ft boards as shown in the picture.
Step 5
Square and cut four of the 1 by boards to 7-ft 9-in lengths.
Step 6
Use construction adhesive to edge glue and clamp two sets of 7-ft 9-in boards. Allow the adhesive to cure according to the manufacturer's instructions. The glued 7-ft 9-in boards are sides B and D of the sandbox.
Step 7
Secure one inside support at each end of each glued 7-ft 9-in board (see Step 4).
Step 8
Cut the remaining 1 by boards into 20-in lengths. You should have twelve 20-in 1 by 3s.
Step 9
Cut one end of each 20-in 1 by 3 to a point (see diagram). The 20-in 1 bys will serve as stakes for the sides of the sandbox.
Step 10
Finish all of the pieces.
Final Assembly of Your Sandbox
Final Assembly of Your Sandbox
When you're putting together your box, remember that tight construction prevents sand from leaking out so make sure the sandbox is square.
Step 1
Stand one of the 8-ft side-pieces on edge and butt the end of one of the 7-ft 9-in pieces to the inside support on the 8-ft piece. Drive 3-ft galvanized deck screws through the 8-in piece into the 7-ft 9-in piece. Do the same on opposite end of the 8-ft piece. Remember to keep the inside supports facing the inside of the sandbox.
Step 2
Attach the second 8-ft piece to the 7-ft 9-in piece the same way as the first and square the sandbox. Secure the two halves together to complete the box.
Step 3
Drive three stakes into the ground along the outside of each side of the sandbox. Position the first stake centered on the side-piece Position the other two stakes two feet to the left and right of the first. Drive each stake so its top is flush with the top edge of the side-piece.
Step 4
Drive 1 1/4-in galvanized screws through the stakes into the side-pieces The stakes help reinforce the sides of the sandbox and keep it square.
Step 5
Sand lightly if needed to prevent splinters.
Bringing in the Sand
You'll need to know the volume of the box before buying sand.
Length x Width x Height = Volume
Example: For our box, 8 x 8 x 1= 64
The volume of the sandbox is therefore 64 cubic feet. Prepackaged, bagged sand is available. Usually called play sand, it's most likely washed river sand, which is smoother and cleaner than builder's sand. A fifty-pound bag is about one half of a cubic foot, so 64 bags should fill it about halfway. Leave room in the box for toy dump trucks, buckets, shovels and the kids. You can always buy a few more bags of sand to add if needed.
Covering the Sandbox
Cats are especially fond of sandboxes. If you have cats around, it's advisable to cover the sandbox when it's not in use. Covers also keep moisture out while reducing leaves and other debris that make their way into the sand. The perfect sandbox cover is perhaps yet to be invented, but here are some options:
Plastic tarps are quick, inexpensive covers, however they will blow off unless attached by snaps, bungee cords or rope. Tarps may also fill with water after a rain. Try putting a five-gallon bucket upside down in the middle of the sandbox. The peak will allow water to drain off of the tarp and keep it from sagging.
Lattice is an inexpensive alternative, available in wood or plastic. While it might keep the cats out, it won't keep out water and may break if stepped on.
Metal screen, hardware cloth or "chicken wire" can be attached to a wooden frame. This cover keeps debris out but won't keep out water.
Sheets of exterior grade plywood can be cut to fit and laid on top of the frame. Attach the plywood to the frame with hinges if you prefer.
Use moist sand. Squeeze a ball of sand in your hand for a few seconds. "If the ball stays together when you roll it around in your palm, it's perfect sand for a castle," says Justin Gordon, an award-winning professional sand sculptor in Massachusetts. "The best place to find this sand is below the tide line," says Gordon.
Start with a densely packed mound of sand. To get the best density, build up the mound gradually: Add 6 inches of sand, pack down firmly with your fists, then pour half a bucket of water on top. (You can never add too much water; any excess will just drain out.) Repeat until you've reached your desired height.
Shave away sand in thin layers. This way, you'll have more control when you're carving design details. Plus, it's easier to take away sand than it is to add it back.
Work from top to bottom. You'll lessen the chance that falling sand or an ill-placed knee will ruin your work. As you create finer details like windows and stairs, blow away excess sand using a straw.
How to Build a Sandbox
Planning Your Sandbox
The location of the sandbox is often determined by where you have space available. The eight-foot by eight-foot frame we're building takes up 64 sq. ft. You may be pleased to have less yard to mow, but if you can't spare the space, work with a smaller sandbox in the area that you have. The plans below can easily be re-sized to fit your space.
Sun or shade? Remember that a sandbox in full sun means the youngsters are exposed to UV rays. On the other hand, placement directly under a tree requires cutting tree roots when digging. At best this is a difficult task-it could also damage or kill the tree. Look for a spot that receives some shade from the house or from nearby trees. For safety's sake, locate the sandbox where you can keep an eye on the youngsters while they're playing.
When planning the size, make room for dump trucks, sand buckets and the neighbors' kids. Remember that you're going to have to put sand in it-perhaps a lot of sand. The example we're using requires 32 cu. ft. of sand (about 64 fifty-LB. bags). If this sounds like too much, you can easily reduce the dimensions. The bracing and corner assembly construction will be the same regardless of the length and width.
Preparing the Site
When you've decided on site and size, measure, mark and prepare the area.
Step 1
Use twine and stakes to make straight lines.
Step 2
Cut out the shape with a shovel.
Step 3
Remove sod (use it to cover bare spots in your yard if you have any).
Step 4
Dig out the soil. You'll want the bottom edge of the sandbox slightly below the surface to help keep the walls in place.
Step 5
Level the cleared area if necessary.
Step 6
Put down a layer of landscape fabric (not plastic) to allow drainage and prevent weeds and grass from popping up through the sand.
Cutting and Assembling the Pieces
Cutting and Assembling the Pieces
To minimize cuts, we're buil
ding our sandbox from 8-ft lumber. Cedar is waterproof, attractive and approved for ground contact. To get the depth we need (12-in), the 6-in wide boards require joining.
Step 1
Square and cut four of the 1 by 6 boards to 8-ft lengths.
Step 2
Use construction adhesive to edge glue and clamp two sets of 8-ft boards. Allow the adhesive to cure according to the manufacturer's instructions. The glued 8-ft boards are sides A and C of the sandbox.
Step 3
Cut eight 10-in pieces from one of the 1 by 3 boards. These are the inside supports.
Step 4
Use 1 1/4-in galvanized screws to secure one inside support at each end of each glued 8 ft. board. The 10- in 1 bys should be on the inside face, flush with the ends of the 8-ft boards as shown in the picture.
Step 5
Square and cut four of the 1 by boards to 7-ft 9-in lengths.
Step 6
Use construction adhesive to edge glue and clamp two sets of 7-ft 9-in boards. Allow the adhesive to cure according to the manufacturer's instructions. The glued 7-ft 9-in boards are sides B and D of the sandbox.
Step 7
Secure one inside support at each end of each glued 7-ft 9-in board (see Step 4).
Step 8
Cut the remaining 1 by boards into 20-in lengths. You should have twelve 20-in 1 by 3s.
Step 9
Cut one end of each 20-in 1 by 3 to a point (see diagram). The 20-in 1 bys will serve as stakes for the sides of the sandbox.
Step 10
Finish all of the pieces.
Final Assembly of Your Sandbox
Final Assembly of Your Sandbox
When you're putting together your box, remember that tight construction prevents sand from leaking out so make sure the sandbox is square.
Step 1
Stand one of the 8-ft side-pieces on edge and butt the end of one of the 7-ft 9-in pieces to the inside support on the 8-ft piece. Drive 3-ft galvanized deck screws through the 8-in piece into the 7-ft 9-in piece. Do the same on opposite end of the 8-ft piece. Remember to keep the inside supports facing the inside of the sandbox.
Step 2
Attach the second 8-ft piece to the 7-ft 9-in piece the same way as the first and square the sandbox. Secure the two halves together to complete the box.
Step 3
Drive three stakes into the ground along the outside of each side of the sandbox. Position the first stake centered on the side-piece Position the other two stakes two feet to the left and right of the first. Drive each stake so its top is flush with the top edge of the side-piece.
Step 4
Drive 1 1/4-in galvanized screws through the stakes into the side-pieces The stakes help reinforce the sides of the sandbox and keep it square.
Step 5
Sand lightly if needed to prevent splinters.
Bringing in the Sand
You'll need to know the volume of the box before buying sand.
Length x Width x Height = Volume
Example: For our box, 8 x 8 x 1= 64
The volume of the sandbox is therefore 64 cubic feet. Prepackaged, bagged sand is available. Usually called play sand, it's most likely washed river sand, which is smoother and cleaner than builder's sand. A fifty-pound bag is about one half of a cubic foot, so 64 bags should fill it about halfway. Leave room in the box for toy dump trucks, buckets, shovels and the kids. You can always buy a few more bags of sand to add if needed.
Covering the Sandbox
Cats are especially fond of sandboxes. If you have cats around, it's advisable to cover the sandbox when it's not in use. Covers also keep moisture out while reducing leaves and other debris that make their way into the sand. The perfect sandbox cover is perhaps yet to be invented, but here are some options:
Plastic tarps are quick, inexpensive covers, however they will blow off unless attached by snaps, bungee cords or rope. Tarps may also fill with water after a rain. Try putting a five-gallon bucket upside down in the middle of the sandbox. The peak will allow water to drain off of the tarp and keep it from sagging.
Lattice is an inexpensive alternative, available in wood or plastic. While it might keep the cats out, it won't keep out water and may break if stepped on.
Metal screen, hardware cloth or "chicken wire" can be attached to a wooden frame. This cover keeps debris out but won't keep out water.
Sheets of exterior grade plywood can be cut to fit and laid on top of the frame. Attach the plywood to the frame with hinges if you prefer.
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